In my career, my police motor slammed the pavement exactly five times when deploying the kickstand and dismounting the bike. And yes, it was on par with that dream we’ve all had where you show up at school with no pants and all the kids laugh at you. Exceedingly embarrassing for sure, but thankfully I’m still alive and riding because every single time I dropped my bike, I was following the Golden Rule: “Always and forever mount and dismount your motor from the high side.”

That’s right, folks. It turns out there’s a correct side of the motorcycle to get on and off from, and it isn’t the side most of you use. Sounds ridiculous, right?

Now, I know you’ve successfully accomplished the task of resting your motorcycle on its kickstand thousands of times. Heck, you’re almost psychic when it comes to surface appraisal and road camber when you boot that stand out. In fact, you’re probably cursing me in your head, arguing that which side you mount or dismount from ultimately depends on where you park your bike or which hand is holding your Milk Duds. But in motor school, I learned the best way to get on and off a motorcycle: from the “high side.” 

Perhaps it’s obvious, but in case I lost you, allow me to explain. For the most part, kickstands are deployed from the left side of the motorcycle. If you put your motorcycle on its kickstand, the bike will settle, or lean, to the left. Therefore, if you were to stand directly behind the bike, the “high” side is the right side of the bike, or the side where your throttle and front brake lever are located. Since the bike is leaned over on the stand, the seat is higher on the right side. Make sense?

Keep in mind that all vehicles in the United States travel on the right side of the road, with opposing traffic on the left. Now, let’s imagine you are riding along and need to get that super tight blue sweatshirt that you love to show off out of your saddlebag. You pull to the side of the road, kick your stand down, and start getting off the bike. But on this particularly cruel day, your bike begins to roll off its kickstand, resulting in the bike falling to the left – or “low” side – and toward traffic. 

Adding chaos to the scenario, it turns out your right leg is the one with a wonky ACL and two meniscus surgeries, so you decided to plant your left foot on the ground and started your dismount on the left (low) side of your bike as it began to fall. Regrettably, your bike starts falling directly onto your one good leg, potentially knocking you into oncoming traffic as it wraps you up and takes you down with it. Not great.

Now let’s put on our mirrored rainbow glasses and imagine you dismounted from the “high” side as your motorcycle started to fall off the kickstand. Not only will you look fabulous, but your right leg will remain planted so your left leg can gracefully swing over the seat like a gazelle’s, safely clearing you from the bike as it ponders what parts and pieces to destroy as it slams to the pavement. Embarrassing and costly? Absolutely, but pretty low risk to you physically.

The good news is this technique pays dividends not just when parked on the road but also in parking lots, your driveway, or anywhere else you throw that kickstand down. I can’t promise that your buddies won’t find some other reason to make fun of you, but like I’ve said a thousand times, you bring that crap on yourself.  

So, from now on, follow my little parking ritual: Shut off the bike, put it in 1st gear, deploy the kickstand, turn the handlebar full‑­lock left, gently ease the bike over onto the kickstand, and step off the high side of the bike. If you need a little assistance with your dismount, grab the front brake and use the handlebar for leverage. And while the process is simple enough, give it a few dry runs in the garage first. Practice makes perfect, though I can’t promise you won’t get weird looks from your friends.

Bonus Motor School Tips

As the late, great Billy Mays used to say, “But wait, there’s more!” Here are a couple more tips to help you out there on the street. 

Curb appeal: If you find yourself in a situation where you need to ride your big heavy bike off a curb, accelerate off rather than tiptoe and duck walk the front wheel off the drop where the lower fairing, oil pan, or pipes could get smashed. I’m not suggesting you channel your inner Daniel J. Canary, the man who invented the wheelie, but ride off like you would accelerate from a typical stop: in a straight line with smooth, assertive throttle (as shown in the photo below). 

And yes, I know firsthand what a great tip this is because I once watched a fellow motor officer gingerly roll his new BMW R 1250 RT‑­P off a tall curb at a DUI checkpoint. After hearing a gut‑­wrenching pile‑­driver concussion, I watched as hot oil spewed out onto the pavement. Oof. 

Brake time: If your bike has been sitting unridden for a while, be sure to work your brake levers and pump up the calipers before you take off. When I first heard this suggestion from an old motor cop, I laughed out loud. But then he walked me over to my bike, gently pushed on my front brake calipers with his boot, and asked me to grab the front brake lever. With a cocky gleam in my eye, I pulled the lever, only to have it bottom out at the throttle grip – the brakes didn’t work at all. Turns out the fluid in your brake calipers can be forced back into the master cylinder if bumped or pushed hard enough, causing the brakes to need some pumping up before they work again.

Find Quinn at Police Motor Training. Send feedback to rider@ridermagazine.com.

See all Motor School with Quinn Redeker articles here.

The post Motor School with Quinn Redeker: How’s Your Dismount? appeared first on Rider Magazine.

When I was 9, I spent every single day riding my dirtbike in the hills north of Los Angeles with all my delinquent buddies. Rain or shine, light or dark, we burned so much premix I’m pretty sure they will find traces of Golden Spectro two-cycle oil in my tissue if they ever do an autopsy on me.

But these days, I just don’t get seat time like I used to. Yes, I was a motor cop and rode with my buddies every day, but that was different because it was merely the platform for a host of other responsibilities: traffic enforcement, collision investigation, emergency patrol support, and so on. It lacked that element of exploration, freedom, and discovery you get when there are no strings attached.

And the worst thing? When I finally do get time to hit the track, tackle some challenging single-track, or sign up for a local club race, I have these painful moments of reckoning that my skills are nowhere near their peak. So there I am trying to enjoy an experience muddled by a crappier version of myself. I try to maintain a glass-half-full mentality, but I swear every time I take my eyes off that damn glass, it loses a little more water.

But I’ve been doing some proactive things around the house to slow the leak, and trust me, they’re helping. What types of things? I’ll give you a hint, they all revolve around one primary goal: improving my balance. I agree it’s a bit obvious and I probably won’t be doing a TED Talk on the subject, but without spinning a single lap, balance drills vastly improve my core strength, reaction time, breathing, on-bike focus, and indeed, my generally souring self-image. They can do the same for you.

What tools do I use for the job? I just finished my morning self-affirmation ritual, so now I can set my mirror down and go over them with you. They’re listed below, from easier and more accessible exercises to those that are more challenging and require some investment. A word of caution: While these exercises will surely improve measurable performance metrics and enhance your overall riding abilities despite less actual time in the saddle, they can also get you hurt. If, like me, you’re of a certain age, bones are easier to break, and muscles can get pulled just doing the dishes. If you question your ability to perform one of the activities listed below, err on the side of caution and skip it.

Spin Training: Crazy as it seems, all those wasted hours you spend spinning around in your office chair might just pay dividends. Here’s why: Spinning around in a circle increases your inner-ear activity, which, in turn, improves the information your inner ear feeds to your cerebellum. And it’s the cerebellum that controls movement, so better information (in the form of a more active inner ear) will improve your overall motor skills. To reap the benefits, you will need a swivel chair. The goal is to slowly increase your spin speed and number of spins over time. Start slowly and keep your eyes open. As you gain comfort, try it with your eyes closed for greater challenge and benefit. The good news here is that even if your riding skills don’t improve, at least you can feel like you’re doing something productive at work.

Balance Board: Using a balance board in the comfort of my living room and office has noticeably improved my balance, coordination, motor skills, and leg strength. And guess what? It all translates when I swing a leg over my bike. Instead of hunting for a used board on Craigslist, I recommend going with a new unit from a trusted manufacturer due to some boards being of questionable structural integrity. Mine is a Vew-Do El Dorado ($169.95 at VewDo.com), which is strong as hell and American-made.

There are plenty of YouTube videos to help get you started, but make sure you practice by holding on to a solid surface as you gain confidence and ability.

Slackline: More than any other tool, the slackline has been the best at improving my body control and breathing while I ride. If this is the only tool you employ, I feel confident in saying you will go from a midpack guy in your riding group to crushing all your buddies, including “Big Ronny,” the resident fast guy who still brags about his 10% racer discount back when he won a local Novice race. A slackline is a taut line tethered between two points, running a few feet off the ground and spanning 15-28 feet in length, or the approximate length of the sun-bleached jet boat in your neighbor’s yard.

It’s fairly intuitive, but again, there are plenty of YouTube videos out there should you need coaching. As for recommended brand and setup, Amazon is your friend – you’ll find a variety of indoor and outdoor versions. Mine is just a long ratchet strap I got from a local hardware store and tied between two trees in the yard.

Unicycle: I get it. They look impossible to learn, and more importantly, you can’t imagine ever becoming one of “those people.” Get over it and pick one up on Craigslist for cheap. A 20- to 24-inch wheel will do fine, and you can watch some YouTube videos to learn. Within a few weeks, you will have balance like you’ve never had in your life, and trust me, it translates. Too old you say? I have buddies in their 70s that I bullied into riding unicycles, so borrow my mirror, hold it in front of your face, and repeat after me: “Yes, I can.”

I don’t want you to start feeling overwhelmed with any of this information, like I just dropped loads more work for you to do. We are having this discussion because both of us have less time to ride, so think of these tools as supplements. Any amount of effort on your end will pay dividends on the bike, so remain calm and bite off a little bit as you go. If it helps, I’ll even let you keep my mirror. 

Find Quinn at Police Motor Training. Send feedback to rider@ridermagazine.com.

See all of Quinn Redeker’s “Motor School” articles here.

The post Motor School with Quinn Redeker: Ride Less and Ride Better appeared first on Rider Magazine.

When you travel by motorcycle, people like to tell you about how they could never tour or camp on a bike. From non-motorcyclists, I typically hear that their fears or lack of confidence would prevent them from ever touring. 

For motorcyclists, those worries don’t come up as often – motorcycle riding tends to require (and breed) a sense of fearlessness and confidence in and of itself. What I hear from fellow motorcyclists is that their equipment holds them back from touring or moto camping. In other words, because they don’t have the “right” bike!  

Unlike their adventure brethren with high-towering suspensions and readily available luggage racks or touring motorcycles with plenty of space and smooth highway capability, sportbikes and other types of motorcycles are unfit for motorcycle travel – or so it may seem.  

As someone who got her touring start on a Kawasaki Ninja 400, I can attest that it is not only possible to travel longer distances on a small-displacement sportbike but even enjoyable. The biggest issue is luggage space, and there are solutions.  

Why Is Space an Issue? 

Sportbikes are inherently shorter and squatter than adventure bikes, dual-sports, or enduros, with a shorter wheelbase and lower center of gravity. This means less physical space for luggage to sit. Add to that the lack of stock panniers, saddlebags, or even luggage racks – not to mention luggage manufacturers’ propensity to leave sportbikes off the list of aftermarket racks – and you’re left scratching your head as to where to put your gear.  

The solution is twofold. Find the best luggage you can attach to your bike with ingenuity, while making your gear as small as possible.  

Best Luggage Possible 

For my first motorcycle tour, I stayed at a friend’s house near the Great Smoky Mountains in Tennessee. I had equal parts enthusiasm and cluelessness, but I knew I needed a way to transport my belongings.  

After asking around, I found a friend willing to loan me their 30L Kriega Drypack. My husband had a 10L of the same brand, and I was able to easily attach the larger pack to the included straps under my seat and the smaller one to the other pack.  

See all of Rider‘s luggage reviews here.

I learned my first motorcycle packing lesson that trip – it’s always harder to repack on the way home, especially if you bought a few too many souvenirs. On that Tennessee trip, my bags were bursting at the seams to begin with, so I don’t know what I was thinking when I purchased additional items. I ended up asking my friend to mail those items to my house!   

Having loved my experience with my friend’s Kriega, I purchased two of my own Drypacks – a 40L and a 30L. I stacked them up the same way I had the 30L and 10L but not with the same result. My center of gravity was off, and the ride, especially at low speeds, was uncomfortable.  

This high center of gravity was alleviated with the addition of some Sedici universal saddlebags. My first attempt at using them was less than ideal, as they sagged and touched my Ninja 400’s exhaust, burning a hole and melting my toiletries. Some adjustments helped stop the sagging, and they tended to be easier to ride with than the leaning tower of Kriega I had before.  

Smallest Gear Possible 

If you think you’re going to fit a full kit of car camping gear on your motorcycle, you might be disappointed with the result. It’s important to purchase gear fit for the occasion. Unfortunately, there aren’t as many motorcycle-specific camping gear options for sale, especially in brick-and-mortar shops. What to do? 

Luckily for us, a different group of adventurers also require packing compactly – backpackers. Given that their body is the vehicle for their kit, backpackers have an eye for getting the lightest, smallest, most packable gear possible. What fits on a person’s back may very well fit on your motorcycle just as well. Shop at outdoor and camping stores like REI and Sportsman’s Warehouse for backpacking essentials.  

See more by the author here.

Saving space wherever possible is the name of the game, which is made easier with the ability to compress. Clothing or other soft items can be shrunk down to a fraction of their size using packing cubes. These zippered contraptions allow you to squeeze out all the air, saving you precious space. Compression sacks are another useful tool for squishy items like sleeping bags.  

Some riders use cargo nets to secure their gear, but I won’t use one again. On my first moto camping trip, I used a cargo net to hold my sleeping bag (compressed in a stuff sack) onto one of my Kriega Drypacks. On the curvy backroads in Kentucky, it shifted back and forth with every turn.  

A fellow motorcyclist whom I met on the road suggested Rok Straps, and I had ordered four on my phone before our conversation ended. These ingenious straps, which combine a wide bungee strap with a non-stretchable adjustable nylon strap with a quick-release buckle and webbed loops on each end, allow you to tie anything down securely. They can be used to tighten down soft luggage or to secure items to racks or pillion seats. I rarely ride without them, even when I’m not on a trip. You never know when you might need to buy something that doesn’t fit in your tank bag.  

Related: Precious Cargo: The Art of Carrying Stuff on a Motorcycle 

Touring or moto camping can be an exciting and even life-changing experience, regardless of what type of motorcycle you own. No one should let the myth that only certain types of motorcycles are capable of touring stop them from experiencing the thrill of a moto trip. I’m the case in point that it’s possible.  

The post Touring on a Sportbike appeared first on Rider Magazine.

We’ve known each other for a little while now, so let me just come out and say it: Deep down, you’re a sensitive person. It’s no secret you get misty-eyed every time you watch Titanic. We all know it, and nobody thinks any less of you. It’s one of the things we really like about you.

When it comes to riding your motorcycle, however, where’s that same tenderness? Remember that early ’80s ballad by the Pointer Sisters about having a slow hand and an easy touch? I’m not saying you’re unsafe or dangerous; it’s just that when I watch you ride – mashing the controls and strangling the life out of the handlebar – it reminds me of a grizzled old garbage man beating helpless metal cans into submission as if he’s trying to settle all of life’s injustices. All that blind fury isn’t necessary, and it makes for a lousy ride up the coast.

Similar to your ability to get in touch with your emotions while watching a tearjerker movie, your riding would greatly benefit from cultivating a little more sensitivity to what your bike is doing beneath you. If you’re unable to truly connect with your motorcycle, you’re likely to miss cues and clues – some of which are quite subtle – that will give you better control and help you get more enjoyment out of riding.

Obviously, you understand the basics of using the throttle, clutch, and brakes, but how well do you listen to your motorcycle when it goes, stops, or turns? Are you sensitive to how your bike reacts when you demand action from it?

Case in point: Watch a pro motorcycle racer during a track test. The mechanics will change engine mapping, suspension, handlebar position, chassis geometry, gearing, and about 7,000 other little things to help the rider find comfort, confidence, and cooperation with the motorcycle. Every top-level racer has an incredibly sensitive feel for the smallest changes made to the bike. One minuscule clicker adjustment on the rear shock can be detected after only a few corners, and the rider will provide feedback to the mechanics to let them know if they are headed in the right or wrong direction.

How is this possible? Simple. They listen to the bike. They tune in to subtle communications from the engine, chassis, and tires until they feel and understand what each is telling them. Armed with vivid, unfiltered feedback, they learn how best to squeeze the most performance out of the motorcycle. And guess what? They also pay attention to the environment, including track surface, changes in camber, weather conditions, and more. Racers are constantly in the moment and tuned in to everything around them, yet they are also able to block out distractions and noise to focus on what’s most important.

You don’t have to be a pro racer to get valuable results from sensitivity training. At Total Control Training, where I’m an instructor, we have a drill in our Advanced Rider Clinic that helps students become better “listeners,” thereby developing more sensitivity to the ebb and flow of their motorcycle’s behavior. But before I walk you through it, understand that repetition is key. Unlike your New Year’s resolution to use those cool stretch bands, which you abandoned after a week, you need to stick to the program if you want to see results. You can’t just do it once and complain that it didn’t work. Do it repeatedly, and before you know it, you’ll get there.

Find a smooth, flat, empty parking area where you can ride at least 200 feet in a straight line. From a stop with your bike in 1st gear, accelerate up to about 20 mph in a smooth manner that minimizes fork extension and rear-end squat. Then brake to approximately 5 mph, doing your best to minimize front-end drop. Accelerate to 20 mph again before coming to a complete stop, making a concerted effort to minimize chassis pitch from start to finish. (Note the subtle differences in the photos below)

This drill gets harder as your acceleration and braking intensity increases, so start slowly and work up from there. See how sensitive you can be to the rising and falling of the front end, working to eliminate it completely.

Find Quinn at Police Motor Training. Send feedback to rider@ridermagazine.com.

See all of Quinn Redeker’s “Motor School” articles here.

The post Motor School With Quinn Redeker: Motor (Sensitivity) Training appeared first on Rider Magazine.

Covering the front brake is a big no-no at most police motor schools across the country. By this, I mean resting any number of your fingers on the front brake lever when not actuating the front brake. Instead, instructors teach riders to keep all fingers on the throttle until you need the brakes, then all fingers on the brake lever. Having been exposed to lots of motorcycle riding disciplines over the last 40 years, I was always curious where this idea originated, as it seems odd not to have all my tools at the ready while riding.

I’ve heard different reasons from motor instructors over the years as to why covering the front brake leads students to eternal damnation. Here are a few:

• Heavy police motorcycles require the strength of all four fingers to effectively slow down during an emergency stop.
• Motor officers will panic and tense up in an emergency, inadvertently jerking the fingers covering the brake lever and causing a crash.
• If you don’t have all four fingers squeezing the brake lever during a collision, the remaining fingers around the throttle could get pinned between the lever and the throttle, causing them to get crushed or severed.

To find a definitive answer, I decided to confer with my old pal Russell Groover out in Florida. A former motor officer and longtime instructor, Russell was instrumental in the creation of the first Basic Motor School used by the Tampa Police Department and later adopted by most agencies in the Southeast in the 1950s. As a youth, Russell grew up racing scrambles and competing in regional hillclimbs, and he was considered a sand specialist in his day, racing enduros down Daytona Beach on his military surplus 1942 Harley-Davidson 45ci. Yep, Russell is a genuine American bad-ass, and if I’m honest, it surprises me that he still takes my calls. But I digress. What did the Oracle tell me? 

“Well, Quinn, keep in mind bikes back then had clutches on the floor, shifters on the tank, and front brakes on the left side of the bars, so we were busy just getting through a work shift. All these bikes had basic cable drum brakes, and at best, they were lousy if you had them set up perfectly and the roads were dry. It wasn’t unusual to snap a brake lever pulling so damn hard trying to get the bike to slow down.” 

When I brought up the idea of covering the front brake with a few fingers in preparation for emergency braking, Russell just laughed and explained that it wasn’t even a consideration in anybody’s mind back then because even four fingers weren’t enough.

My takeaway is this: A poor braking system demanded far more work (and more fingers) from the rider back then, so they instructed motor officers to access every bit of braking power they could muster, and the training manual reflected it. It makes sense given the antiquated systems they had at the time, but that was 1955. Unfortunately, even with the adoption of hydraulic disc brakes and riders no longer experiencing white-knuckle pulls trying to stop, motor programs have yet to update curriculums, as if we’re still living in the past.

Let’s pretend we’re in the future…say, 2023. You have a motorcycle with big brake rotors, powerful hydraulic calipers, and ABS. We’ll call this system “Brembo.” I know it’s crazy, but we’re talking about the future, so just go with me here. Let’s also assume that you always cover the front brake while riding your motorcycle.

Are these futuristic brakes strong enough to stop you with less than four fingers? Check.

By covering the front brake, are you minimizing your reaction time in an emergency due to your finger(s) being staged for rapid deployment? Check.

Will this enable you to perform smooth trail braking, creating a far more stable chassis during cornering? Check.

Will you now be able to smoothly overlap your controls transitioning from throttle to brakes, further stabilizing the motorcycle and generating better overall traction? Again, check.

Wow, I can’t wait for the future! 

Related: Quinn Redeker | Ep. 64 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast

If I haven’t been clear, let me come out and say it: I am a huge proponent of covering the front brake in all riding situations, on pavement and in the dirt. And dammit, if it were up to me, I would allow anybody in your riding group to smack your hand with a heavy ruler every time you failed to do it. 

I cover the front brake with my index finger alone and have all-day comfort, dexterity, leverage, and enough force to handle any situation, from gentle slowing to threshold braking. And if you’re wondering, my one finger provides enough pulling power on the lever to brake hard enough for my BMW 1250 RT-P’s ABS to kick in, rain or shine. 

Here’s the thing: Motorcycle riding takes loads of coordination, skill, concentration, practice, more practice, good judgment, and maybe even a dash of psychic ability. If you think that by covering the front brake, any unexpected event will overwhelm your senses and cause you to go “condition black,” blindly grabbing a handful of brakes and crashing in a panic, I suggest you consider scrapbooking instead of motorcycling. And because I’m supportive, feel free to use the photos we took of you skipping around in the butterfly sanctuary a few weeks back. 

So yes, covering the front brake it is! Great decision. And while this article is more about wrapping your head around the idea of covering the front brake than it is a how-to guide, let’s discuss a few details if you don’t currently employ this technique and want to time warp yourself back to the future.

First, let’s decide what finger(s) we will use. As I mentioned, I use only my index finger and can achieve effective and comfortable braking results on all but my old drum-equipped racebikes, on which I use only two. I recommend you let the overall strength of your braking system be your guide. 

We want to make sure we have constant contact with the lever regardless of throttle position so that at any time during the manipulation of your controls, you can effectively apply the front brake. This means the lever needs to be close enough to reach when you twist the throttle, yet far enough to have adequate travel for maximum braking force. A great way to check if your lever is set in a good spot is to give it a firm squeeze and see if it “cages” the remaining fingers you have wrapped around the throttle. In other words, we don’t want the lever to touch your throttle fingers when you apply the brake. 

Lastly, you need to familiarize your hand with this new way of interacting with your bike. My recommendation is to sit in your garage with your bike shut off and practice keeping your finger rested on the lever while manipulating your throttle throughout its range of travel. You should be comfortable with this in about the same amount of time it would take you to eat two large chimichangas with an ice-cold beverage. Pay attention to ensure you are manipulating your front brake at all throttle positions. If you can’t apply the brake at a moment’s notice, all is lost. 

Once you feel comfortable with this technique in a static setting, ride your bike at slow speeds in your neighborhood or an empty parking lot, working this drill over and over. Keep focus on smooth throttle roll on and smooth front brake application.

Now that you’ve heard my pitch, I’ll make a few assurances should you choose to put on your spacesuit and give this a try. I promise you a greatly increased sense of security, knowing you are ready for an emergency stop at any moment. More critically, your overall braking distances will decrease because your reaction times will improve significantly. And I guarantee you will feel more confident about yourself as a rider the moment you start covering the front brake. Call it Quinn’s win-win-win. 

Find Quinn at Police Motor Training. Send feedback to rider@ridermagazine.com.

See all of Quinn Redeker’s “Motor School” articles here.

The post Motor School With Quinn Redeker: Cover Me, I’m on the Move appeared first on Rider Magazine.

As a rider for over 50 years and writer for motorcycle magazines for more than 25 years, I’ve heard motorcyclists spout some bizarre beliefs. Here are some of the most enduring motorcycle myths. Each is bogus.

1. Loud pipes save lives. Loud pipes mean more power.

The first of my motorcycle myths is a twofer. First off, loud pipes don’t save lives, but becoming a better rider can. Some people also assume a louder exhaust (one with little or no baffling) makes more power. While a less restrictive exhaust may add a bit more horsepower at the top of the rev range, they often perform poorly unless corresponding changes are made to the intake side. OEM exhausts are designed to provide horsepower and torque where it matters – in the midrange where you spend most of your time riding.

2. Open-face helmets are just as good as full-face helmets.

Full-face motorcycle helmets provide better protection than open-face helmets because they cover the entire head, including the chin and face. Seeing photos of riders with the bottom half of their face torn off convinced me.

A meta-analysis in Preventive Medicine Reports found that full-face helmets reduce the risk of head injuries by 64% and neck injuries by 36% compared to open-face helmets. A full-face helmet’s faceshield protects the face and provides a clear view, and the fully enclosed design reduces noise by up to 30 decibels. Overall, full-face helmets provide better protection, more comfort, and increased safety.

See all of Rider‘s Helmet reviews here.

3. Using car tires on motorcycles is fine.

Does anyone still buy this myth? Using car tires on motorcycles can be dangerous. The Motorcycle Industry Council warns: “Never mount a passenger car tire on a motorcycle rim; the flat profile of a car tire is incompatible with the dynamics of a vehicle that leans as it corners, and the section of the tire in contact with the rim (the ‘bead’) is incompatible with motorcycle rims.”

Tales from the Dark Side, Eric Trow’s feature in Rider on this topic, includes a quote from motorcycle safety expert and AMA hall-of-famer David Hough: “Motorcycle engineers get up awfully early in the morning to calculate what works best for bikes. An owner who disregards the engineers’ advice should think carefully about his or her talents in being more clever than the engineers. The owner who installs tires not designed for the task must take full responsibility for the results.”

Related: Tales From the Dark Side: Putting Car Tires on Motorcycles

4. The rear brake stops a bike better than the front brake.

Using the front brake to stop a motorcycle is more effective and safer than relying on the rear brake. No exercise was practiced more and drilled into us harder during police motor officer training than proper braking. According to the Motorcycle Safety Foundation, the front brake provides over 70% of a motorcycle’s stopping power. It is more effective because as you brake, a motorcycle’s weight shifts forward, giving the front tire more grip. The front brake also provides better control and stability, especially in emergency situations, whereas the rear tire can lock up and skid, leading to loss of control. Using both brakes together provides the shortest stopping distance.

5. “I had to lay it down.”

This refers to intentionally laying a motorcycle on its side to avoid an impending crash. In other words, crashing to avoid a crash. This is not only pointless, it’s dangerous. Every millisecond of braking before impact reduces speed and the severity of damage. Experienced riders and safety organizations such as the MSF emphasize that riders should maintain control of the motorcycle and try to avoid an accident altogether through proper use of the brakes. Laying the bike down is a sign of panic and lack of proper training and experience. It can result in road rash, broken bones, and even death.

6. Lane splitting is dangerous.

Research has shown lane splitting reduces traffic congestion and improves traffic flow. A study by the University of California Berkeley found that lane splitting reduces traffic delays by up to 40%. Lane splitting can be safer for motorcyclists because it reduces the likelihood of being hit from behind by distracted or inattentive drivers. The study also found no increased risk of crashes for motorcyclists who practice it safely and responsibly. Once only allowed in California, it is now legal in various forms in four states. For more on this topic, check out Eric Trow’s feature, Split Decision: Are Lane Splitting and Lane Filtering Safe?.

7. BMWs are more reliable than other motorcycles.

I own a BMW motorcycle, and I’ve owned, ridden, tested, or rented bikes from nearly every major manufacturer. As you can expect, I have opinions about brand reliability, but don’t take my word for it. A 2015 Consumer Reports survey of 11,000 motorcycle owners provided the following ranking of brands in terms of reliability: 1. Yamaha, 2. Honda, 3. Suzuki, 4. Kawasaki, 5. Harley-Davidson, 6. Triumph, 7. Ducati, and 8. BMW.

See all of Rider‘s BMW coverage here.

8. Leather motorcycle apparel offers the best protection.

In truth, the best protective gear is the gear you use and wear all the time. In some instances, Kevlar (a synthetic material five times stronger than steel and with excellent abrasion resistance) and Cordura (a durable nylon that’s also resistant to abrasion) are considered superior to leather. They also weigh less than leather and can keep you cooler, a significant benefit in hot weather.

See all of Rider‘s Apparel reviews here.

9. Being a passenger on a motorcycle is just like being a rider.

Early in my riding days, I gave little thought to what my passenger was experiencing. Eventually, I wised up, and an article I wrote about riding with passengers became one of my most requested reprints. A passenger’s perspective on a motorcycle is very different from the rider’s. If you have any doubts, hop on the passenger seat and ride for 50 miles with someone else at the controls. Passengers can impact the bike’s handling. Riding with a good passenger is wonderful; riding with those who are scared or unfamiliar with how a motorcycle handles can be a total disaster.  

10. Real riders never wash their bikes.

A good friend and fellow motorcycle journalist never washed his bike. He bragged that every bug he ever hit was still there. It was a case of pride over performance. My post-trip habit is to thoroughly wash and detail my motorcycle. In the process, I examine every cable and fastener to ensure it is snug and in its proper place. Going over the bike inch by inch, I often find little things wrong that, if unaddressed, could have caused big problems later. Riders should take the time to clean their own bike and know what to look for. This is the motorcyclist’s equivalent of a pilot flight pre-check. It can save your life.

11. Aftermarket performance accessories improve performance.

My friend Kevin Brown says one of the first things he learned at the Motorcycle Mechanics Institute was to ask the following questions of a rider who complained his bike was not running right: “What did you do to it? Did you add any accessories or make any performance enhancements?” Turns out a high percentage of bikes could be fixed by simply removing the addition. The chances you’ll improve the performance of your bike by adding something is highly unlikely. Usually it runs worse.

See all of Rider‘s Parts & Accessories reviews here.

12. Turn your handlebar in the direction you want to go.

Motorcyclists control the direction of travel by using “countersteering.” This means the rider turns or pushes the handlebar in the opposite direction of the turn. In other words, steer left to turn right, and vice versa. This works because as you turn in the opposite direction, the bike and rider will lean in the direction you wish to go. Many riders are unaware of this but make the correct movement unconsciously.  

Related: Stayin’ Safe: Countersteering

13. Car drivers see motorcycles and will stop for you.

Automobile drivers don’t look for motorcycles the way they watch for other cars. They often will look directly at you yet fail to register the presence of a motorcycle. I credit a good part of my surviving so many motorcycle miles without incident to pretending my bike and I are wrapped in an invisibility cloak and no one can see me. Because of this mindset, I expect cars to pull out in front of me and am always prepared with a “Plan B.”  

14. Only wusses wear protective gear.

Those who have had accidents often credit their protective gear with saving their lives. My riding friends operate with the motto ATGATT, meaning “All The Gear, All The Time.” Full protective gear includes a good helmet and armored jacket, gloves, pants, and boots. Some riders now use airbag vests or suits. Many seriously injured bikers lament from a hospital bed: “But I was only going three blocks to the store. I didn’t want to get all suited up just for that.” 

15. Raingear keeps you dry in the rain.

I’m told some raingear works well. My experience, however, is that rain almost always seeps into small cracks or seams, and before I know it, I’m soaked. I’ve owned at least five pairs of “waterproof” gloves and only one pair worked. Same for boots. If you are riding in the rain, prepare to get wet.  

16. Interstate highways are dangerous.

Interstate highways, while certainly not the most fun, are generally considered the safest place to ride a motorcycle due to their consistent speeds and limited access, which minimizes cross traffic. According to the NHTSA, interstates have the lowest fatality rates per mile traveled compared to other road types. Two-lane roads pose a higher risk due to their narrow lanes and lack of barriers between opposing lanes of traffic. City streets and parking lots pose the highest risk of accidents for motorcyclists due to higher levels of congestion, frequent intersections, and obstacles.

17. Riding side by side within a lane like Ponch and Jon on CHiPs is the best way to ride.

Motorcyclists are safest when riding in a staggered formation. It provides greater visibility and more space for emergency maneuvers and stopping. It also makes it easier to signal your fellow riders should the need arise.  

Related: Stayin’ Safe: Group Riding Tips

18. Faced with a potential accident, you can avoid injury by jumping off your motorcycle.

Like “laying it down,” this may be tempting if it appears you are about to crash, but it’s a bad idea and will likely result in serious injury or death. Sticking with the motorcycle, attempting to control it, and having faith in its ability to stop, rapidly change direction, and get you out of a tight situation is nearly always the better choice. Motorcycles are far more capable than we give them credit for. 

19. Once you set the correct tire pressure on your bike, you can forget it.

Tire pressure has a significant influence on the performance and safety of a motorcycle. Keeping both tires at the correct pressure provides the best ride quality, traction, stability, and control. Incorrect tire pressure negatively impacts wear on the tires and hurts your mileage. All motorcycle tires lose air to some extent, so it is imperative to always check for correct pressure before every ride. 

In his book The Power of Myth, Joseph Cambell wrote that mythologies have value because they “support our quest for wisdom and happiness.” Loud pipes may make you feel cool, and backroads may be the most fun, but don’t believe loud pipes will save your life or that backroads are safer. Motorcycle myths are still myths – widely held but false beliefs.

See all of Rider‘s Tips & Tricks articles here.

The post 19 Common Motorcycle Myths appeared first on Rider Magazine.

I’ll assume that most of you have quite a bit of motorcycle riding experience under your belt, and I bet you’ve logged some heavy miles and had a few near misses over the years. Given your vast experience, you’ve probably learned a few things along the way. Over the years of riding as a motor officer, I have managed to learn some habits that maybe you haven’t heard about and could benefit from.

This first one came to me via a salty old motor cop addressing a room full of other salty old motor cops, and it absolutely woke up the room. He asked, “What does a green light mean?” And while your brain, like mine, probably thought it means you have legal right-of-way to go through the intersection, this guy dropped a bomb and answered, “A green light means the bulb is working.”

Think about that for a minute: The bulb is working. That’s all it means. He went on to demand that we trust no traffic signal and remain colorblind, making damn sure to clear every intersection lane-by-lane before entering it. In the end, he made believers out of every one of us old motor cops: A light bulb has no mystical power to keep you safe. 

From that day forward, I never went through an intersection without diligently assessing the cross-traffic during my approach. Had I not, on three separate occasions I would have been seriously injured or worse due to oblivious drivers blowing stale red lights. And if you are wondering, no, I didn’t let them off with warnings.

Related: Quinn Redeker | Ep. 64 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast

Other Motor School Intersection Tips

In addition to assessing each intersection before going into it, it’s also good practice to avoid being the first vehicle into the intersection. Think about it: How many times have you watched vehicles run the red trying to “make the light”? You don’t want to rip out there as soon as your light turns green, only to come face-to-face with Bruce The Crossfit King, hopped up on pre-workout caffeine on his way to The Box to smash some PRs. Better to slow your roll, assess, and then proceed. Let everybody else risk the wrath of Bruce.

Another habit? When approaching a green light, I speed up or slow down a little bit to pace next to vehicles headed in the same direction as me until I clear the intersection. It just takes a few seconds, and by having a nice big car or truck on my side, I have a “blocker” to protect me. Once out of the intersection, I go on about my business until the next one presents itself.

Although this next tip is not related to intersections, it has saved my skin more times than I can count. I worked traffic in the hilly beach town of Ventura, California, which means I made lots of stops on steep slopes. I was not interested in having my bike run away without me or roll off the kickstand during a traffic stop, so I always kept my bike in 1st gear as an improvised motorcycle emergency brake. My ritual consisted of clicking down to 1st, shutting the bike off, letting the clutch out, allowing the bike to roll forward and settle, then putting the kickstand down and stepping off into the great unknown. The settle part is key because the bike typically rolls a few inches after you let the clutch out, which can be just far enough to roll it off the stand and hit the ground. Ask me how I know this… 

These are just a few ideas that might benefit you from time to time. For those of you who already know these things, thanks for listening politely as I preached to the choir. Most importantly, for all the elder statesmen out there who have, in one form or another, helped save my life, I leave you with this:

“When I was a boy of 14, my father was so ignorant I could hardly stand to have the old man around. But when I got to be 21, I was astonished at how much the old man had learned in seven years.” –Mark Twain

Find Quinn at Police Motor Training. Send feedback to rider@ridermagazine.com.

See all of Quinn Redeker’s “Motor School” articles here.

The post Motor School With Quinn Redeker: What Does a Green Light Mean? appeared first on Rider Magazine.

You’ve packed your moto camping kit. You’ve loaded up your luggage. You zip up your moto jacket and step out into…your backyard? When it comes to motorcycle camping tips, this is perhaps the best place to start.

Regardless of whether you’re an experienced motorcyclist or a skillful camper, there’s something about combining the two that enhances the adventure – and the challenges. Your backyard might seem like an odd place to camp, but if you’re new to motorcycle camping or trying out equipment for the first time, there’s no better place to practice than at home.

Motorcycle Camping Tips 101: Checking Your Kit

Unlike car camping, tossing everything in the back of your vehicle is not an option when traveling on a bike. Motorcycle camping requires more attention to organization and efficient packing. You not only have limited space, but often you need to unpack and set up camp when you’re worn out from a long day of riding. You then must pack everything back up again the next morning – and that tent never wants to go back in its stuff sack just right, does it?

It can take time to figure out how new equipment works. After upgrading to a larger tent, I embarked on a moto camping trip before trying it out first. When I arrived at my campsite in West Virginia, exhausted from riding since dawn, I realized the new tent’s guy lines were different than my usual setup. Without internet access, I had to guess how to tie them. I made it through the night, but the clear light of morning revealed I had tied them incorrectly. Had I tried to stake down those lines at home, I could have quickly determined the correct method by pulling up a video on my phone.

Related: Camping Challenge: Roughing It ‘Rider’ Style

The Benefits of the Backyard

Testing your camping gear and learning the proper approach for set up and break down in your backyard saves headaches in the backcountry. Practice makes perfect. Can’t figure out a piece of gear? Read the instruction manual or find a tutorial on YouTube. Is something broken or missing? Find a replacement before you need it most, and get your packing list dialed in from the comfort of home.

Lucky are those who can sleep through anything. For the rest of us, a sagging sleeping pad or too-puffy pillow can make for a miserable, sleepless night – and fatigue and soreness the next day, which affects your riding.

One night while camping in the early spring, I discovered that my idea of a comfortable sleeping temperature differed significantly from my sleeping bag manufacturer’s rating. After shivering for an hour in 35-degree temperatures inside my 30-degree bag, I donned every piece of clothing I had, including three pairs of socks and my motorcycle gloves, before I finally fell asleep. Had I tested the sleeping bag at home at that temperature, I could have simply gone inside – and opened a browser tab to order a thermal sleeping bag liner.

Waiting to Wander

After testing out your gear, packing methods, and camping setup, you might be ready to head out on that long-distance motorcycle trip. While you would be better equipped than you were before the backyard practice, another of my motorcycle camping tips I might offer is that it’s still a good idea to do a shakedown run with your loaded motorcycle and perhaps spend a night at a campsite close to home, especially when trying out new gear or luggage.

I purchased a set of universal-fit Sedici saddlebags for my Kawasaki Ninja 400, and after loading them up, I hit the road. When I arrived at a campground a couple of hours later, I smelled something odd. After examining my bike, I discovered that hot exhaust gas from the muffler had burned a gaping hole in the corner of the saddlebag.

Related: Take It With You: Motorcycle Luggage Buyers Guide

Molten sunscreen and soap were dripping out of the singed tarpaulin, and I knew I wasn’t going to be able to ride home like that – not without my stuff falling out of the hole or being melted or burned on the way. I called my husband and asked him to drive to the campsite so we could load my gear into our truck. Had I tried those saddlebags around town before heading out, I could have saved us both time and hassle.

Don’t think of setting up camp in your backyard as a chore or a waste of time. Have fun and use it as an opportunity to get excited about the adventures to come. Play with your gear, enjoy the outdoors, and if something goes wrong, you can always sleep in your own bed.

The post Motorcycle Camping Tips…From the Backyard? appeared first on Rider Magazine.

As part of the Stayin’ Safe advanced rider training program – a method that leads a small group of experienced motorcyclists on road tours and delivers real-time, real-world coaching via in-helmet communications – I’m often asked by participants to address specific aspects of road riding unique to the region where a training tour is being conducted. As part of our Southern California training tours, I’ve been routinely asked if I would be teaching techniques for safe lane splitting.

Although it is intriguing to consider, I always decline. While I agree it would be a valuable teaching opportunity for that riding environment, I also realize it would be impractical with a group of riders since traffic dynamics change rapidly – as would recommended tactics depending on the bike and the circumstances. But perhaps the bigger challenge would be to get consensus among the riders to do it in the first place. Even if all participants are from California (and they rarely are), there are always distinct and deeply polarized views about lane splitting. Riders are adamantly for it or against it. 

The term “lane splitting” gets tossed around outside of California more often these days as several other states – including Utah, Montana, Arizona, and Hawaii – have legalized some form of the practice, while others are considering it. As lane splitting becomes more widespread, the volume of polarized opinions is expanding as well. 

But maybe I’m getting ahead of myself. Let’s start by defining what lane splitting is. For starters, it’s not a universal term. “Splitting” is one type of lane sharing motorcyclists have been doing for years on California freeways, but there are other forms (and terms) we should know.

Related: On Lane Splitting with Eric Trow | Ep. 60 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast

What is Lane Sharing? 

In the broadest sense, lane sharing, lane splitting, lane filtering, white lining, and a handful of other terms are used to describe the act of advancing a motorcycle through slow or stopped traffic on a multilane road (all heading the same direction, of course) by riding between lanes at a slightly higher speed than the flow of other vehicles. That’s it, in a congested traffic nutshell. 

Are We Lane Splitting or Lane Filtering?

While “lane splitting” is a term used broadly to describe riding between lanes of traffic, there are distinctions between lane splitting and lane filtering. 

When riding on a multilane highway such as a limited-access freeway, a motorcyclist might “split” the lanes and ride between two lines of vehicles if the traffic has slowed or come to a stop due to congestion. That’s what’s specifically referred to as lane splitting. 

When riding in multiple lanes of traffic where there are intersections and traffic signals, a rider might move forward or “filter” between rows of vehicles stopped at a light, enabling the rider to move to the front of the line. This is lane filtering. 

Why Do It? 

The primary argument for lane splitting and lane filtering is that they are deemed safer practices that reduce opportunities for motorcyclists to be rear-ended in high-volume, stop-and-go traffic. Frankly, that’s a pretty strong argument since busy roadways are a high-risk environment for motorcyclists – perhaps even more so as increasingly distracted drivers are putting riders at higher risk.  

Lane splitting is also claimed to give riders a better view through traffic as well as improved mobility. It’s contended that it allows riders to see farther ahead, actively separate themselves from threats, and strategically place their bikes in pockets of less congestion. 

Lane splitting has been touted as helping to reduce fuel consumption and emissions by minimizing the time motorcycles sit in slow or stopped traffic. It also helps reduce traffic congestion because there are fewer vehicles sitting single-file in traffic lanes.

Does Lane Splitting Reduce Risk? 

Yes and no. Motorcycle Lane-splitting and Safety in California, a 2015 study conducted by the Safe Transportation Research & Education Center at the University of California Berkeley, took a good long look into the matter to “increase our understanding of collisions involving lane-splitting motorcyclists and of how lane splitting impacts collision injuries.”   

The study found that lane splitting appears to reduce certain types of crashes, specifically rear-end collisions. That’s great news. Lane-splitting riders were less than half as likely to be rear-ended than their non-lane-splitting brethren (2.6% vs. 4.6%). Those figures would look even better if some of those riders involved in a collision hadn’t been rear-ended by fellow riders who were following too closely (thanks, bud). 

With fewer rear-end collisions, the analysis also showed that lane-splitting motorcyclists involved in a collision were injured less frequently than non-lane-splitters. They were half as likely to suffer a head injury (9% vs. 17%) and about a third less likely to sustain a torso injury (19% vs. 29%). Although fatalities are rare, even those were reduced by more than half (1.2% vs. 3.0%). Again, good news. 

But with the good comes the bad (doesn’t it always?).

Lane splitting doesn’t eliminate crashes. Lane-sharing riders just crash differently and not as badly (provided speed is kept to a minimum). 

While lane splitting and lane filtering can help a rider escape certain significant threats, it does introduce new ones. For example, there’s a smaller safety bubble. You’ll recall learning in your Motorcycle Safety Foundation or Total Control training course (you took one of those, right?) how important it is to maintain a safety cushion around your motorcycle. Riding between lanes puts motorcyclists significantly closer to other vehicles than they would be otherwise. That can make the rider more vulnerable from both sides (but less so front and rear) since there is less space to maneuver left or right – and therefore less time to react – if a driver makes a sudden move. 

The highest risk for any motorcyclist lane splitting in freeway traffic is other vehicles changing lanes. In suburban and city environments, lane filtering riders can find themselves among vehicles unexpectedly maneuvering into or out of traffic.

As a result, while lane splitting may reduce the likelihood of the rider being rear-ended, they are more than twice as likely to rear-end other vehicles (38% of lane-splitting riders vs. 16% of non-lane-splitting riders). That one’s on us.

Beyond the known hazards of riding too fast (surely you’ve heard, “speed kills”), the risk and severity of injury grows when there is an increase in the speed of the motorcycle compared to the pace of surrounding traffic – what’s known as “speed differential.” That speed difference between bike and traffic can play a significant role in causing a collision while lane splitting or filtering. 

Perhaps the Greatest Challenge of All…

For the rider who is weighing the pros and cons of lane sharing, a serious consideration should be the low public awareness of lane splitting and the attitudes of other drivers.  

Another U.C. Berkeley study from 2014 probed the minds of California drivers and motorcyclists. Even in California, where lane splitting and filtering have been common practices for decades, roughly half of all California drivers either believed that lane splitting was illegal (it wasn’t) or they were unsure about its legality. Such perceptions can contribute to negative attitudes about the practice. That study revealed 61% of non-motorcyclists in the Golden State disapproved of lane splitting.

Do drivers believe lane splitters are unwilling to play by the same rules others must adhere to, or that they are just acting as renegades?

I became particularly curious about the behavior of drivers and the potential impact (figuratively and literally) on motorcyclists as they consider the practice of lane sharing, especially in states where the concept has recently been introduced.

When it comes to driver behavior, I believe there are few better go-to resources than Tom Vanderbilt’s fantastic, well-researched book, Traffic: Why We Drive the Way We Do (and What It Says About Us). The author addresses the physical, psychological, and sociological aspects of traffic and how drivers, as human beings, interact with each other. I reached out to Vanderbilt to get his take on the potential challenges associated with introducing a practice like lane sharing into the general traffic environment.  

“I am well aware of a dynamic that I am sure affects motorcyclists a lot, which I’ll call an ‘empathy imbalance,’” he said, defining the term as the phenomenon whereby people who drive cars may be unable to relate to motorcyclists since most car drivers don’t ride motorcycles and are unfamiliar with – and therefore unable to empathize with – the two-wheeled mode of transportation.

“So often drivers simply don’t understand the motives or behavior of the other mode,” Vanderbilt continued, “and they often translate their own confusion to some failing on the part of the other user. What might seem like rational or safe behavior on the part of a motorcyclist may seem reckless or like ‘cheating’ to a driver, who simply sees some ‘other’ they don’t fully understand.”

Vanderbilt’s advice? “Don’t think that your view of what is ‘commonsense behavior’ is shared by everyone around you.” In other words, until the practice is more common and drivers see enough people doing it – to a point where it no longer seems like strange and rebellious behavior – we should assume that lane splitting will be out of the norm for other motorists and may be viewed as unacceptable traffic behavior. 

The “empathy imbalance” is a compelling way to capture the mindset gap that exists out on the roadway and how that imbalance could be a chasm the size of the Grand Canyon in states where neither lane splitting nor lane filtering have ever been routine behavior. When it comes to lane sharing, especially where the practice is just being introduced, that empathy imbalance may be the greatest threat of all to motorcyclists. 

Sidebar: What do Lane Splitters Look Like?

While some folks might expect lane splitters and filterers to be wild-haired outlaw rebels without causes, research paints a different picture. Contrary to the ruffian image, research reveals that lane splitters tend to be:

• Regular commuters riding during weekday commuting hours
• Wearing proper riding gear, including full-face helmets
• Riding solo and riding sober
• Splitting lanes only when traffic is at 30 mph or below

Can Lane Sharing Be Done Safely? 

According to the U.C. Berkeley study, lane splitting and lane filtering appear to be relatively safe strategies and practices provided they are done in traffic traveling at 50 mph or less and motorcyclists stay within 15 mph of that traffic. Lower traffic speeds and a smaller speed differential between the bike and surrounding vehicles make it even safer. 

The Motorcycle Industry Council (MIC), American Motorcyclist Association (AMA), National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), and Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) all align in support of lane sharing as a safe strategy. The American Automobile Association (AAA), on the other hand, opposes the practice. 

Beyond these authorities, I turned to another trusted source in California, my friend and fellow motorcycle proficiency expert Lee Parks. Among his many credentials, Parks owns and operates Total Control Training Inc. and authored the best-selling book Total Control: High Performance Street Riding Techniques. He also runs the rider training program for California and several other states. I asked Parks for his take on lane splitting. 

“Having moved here in 1992, I can’t imagine living in another state that didn’t have lane splitting,” he said. “It’s safer, saves time, reduces the chances of getting rear-ended by other road users, and reduces the travel time for everyone by taking riders out of the long lines of traffic.” Parks shared how, for him, a two-hour commute by car became a manageable 45-minute ride by motorcycle. 

Is lane splitting for everyone? Parks and I share the same opinion, but he articulates it better: “It’s good for any experienced rider who has excellent situational awareness. Lane splitting is not for the faint of heart, nor those new to riding. It requires an extreme amount of focus and attention to be safe, and all riding functions must already be in your muscle memory so they don’t take away from your awareness.

“I’d add that lane splitting is only safely manageable for someone who is not impaired in any way. This includes drinking, drugs, fatigue, or being mentally distracted.”

Safer Splitting and Friendlier Filtering

Whether you’re new to the practice or have been lane splitting or filtering for years, here are things you can do to improve your odds while improving your position in traffic.  

First, stick to these two speed factors when lane sharing: 

1. Traffic speed is slow or stopped. The faster traffic is moving, the greater the risk of incident and injury. Choose to filter past other vehicles only when traffic is moving below 50 mph, and the slower the safer.

2. Your speed is within 10-15 mph of traffic. A small speed differential is safer. By keeping your own speed close to that of traffic, you buy critical time and space to respond to emerging threats. Work the physics in your favor!

Apply these techniques each time you move between lanes: 

• Look farther ahead, widen your view, and anticipate vehicles changing lanes.
• Be “tactical ready,” poised to smoothly slow down or maneuver as necessary.
• Stay to the left-most lanes on highways when lane splitting (between lanes #1 and #2).
• Don’t linger in blind spots.
• Beware of gaps that might invite other vehicles to change lanes just as you arrive.
• Avoid splitting lanes near entrance and exit ramps (it’s illegal in California).
• If riding with others, keep a safe distance between bikes to avoid rear-ending your buddy (or being rear-ended).  

Of course, there is still the concern of other drivers and their response to lane-sharing motorcyclists, especially in states where the practice is not the norm. Until it is, riders should anticipate pushback from other motorists. Perhaps the best way to minimize that is to promote goodwill by being respectful, courteous, and empathetic to the other drivers who remain stuck in traffic (we’ve all been there). 

Should You Do It? 

It’s a personal choice – don’t ever let someone else force a lane-splitting decision for you. If you are still on the fence, here’s a little more filtering food for thought: 

Not all motorcycles are created equal. While lane sharing is practiced by riders of all types, it is easier on a narrower, lighter machine. Remember, the wider your bike, the less space cushion you have as you filter between rows of cars, SUVs, trucks, and buses. 

Not all riders are created equal. Experience riding in heavy traffic, ability to maneuver a motorcycle confidently at very slow speed, and maintaining a calm mind to avoid panic are important aspects of riding a motorcycle between lanes of congested traffic. Make an honest assessment of your own riding proficiency before attempting to split lanes. 

Motivation matters. Lane sharing can be a valuable safety strategy to avoid rear-end collisions, and it can make commuting more efficient for all. But if your motivation is driven by impatience, resentment of other drivers who are holding up your progress, or simply because it seems that splitting might be an adrenaline rush, it may not be the best choice for you (it doesn’t do much to help driver attitudes toward the rest of us either). 

Where is Lane Splitting and Lane Filtering Legal? 

Even if you are willing, lane sharing is still only a legal practice in a handful of states – and to varying degrees. Lane splitting on multilane highways? That’s still only legal in California. Yep, that’s it. Lane filtering in stopped traffic can now be done to some extent in Arizona, Hawaii, Montana, and Utah, but each state has distinct restrictions (see sidebar below).

If you’re the gambling type, the states of Delaware and Arkansas don’t have legal language that expressly prohibits lane splitting and filtering, but they do have an abundance of law enforcement officers who are authorized to interpret what a “safe and legal” practice is on a case-by-case basis. 

Lee Parks said he believes the challenge in new states will be educating the car drivers more so than the riders.

“It will require a lot of public service announcements and driver education to make it as accepted and ubiquitous as it is in California,” he said. “The successes and failures of those states will help drive policy for new ones to adopt one of my favorite benefits of riding in California.”   

A summary of current state laws specific to lane splitting and lane filtering

California: The only state where lane splitting and lane filtering on multilane roadways are both legal practices.

Arizona: Motorcyclists may ride between lanes of stopped traffic at a red light on a multilane roadway where the speed limit is 45 mph or less and the rider is traveling no more than 15 mph. No passing on median or shoulder.

Hawaii: Riders are permitted to use the shoulder of the road to pass stopped traffic on roads with at least two lanes in each direction and a shoulder wide enough to accommodate the rider.

Montana: Riders may filter between lanes to overtake stopped or slow vehicles traveling no more than 10 mph provided that the motorcyclist stays within 10 mph of surrounding traffic and does not exceed 20 mph.

Utah: Motorcyclists may travel between lanes of stopped traffic (not slow-moving traffic) on a multilane road having a speed limit of 45 mph or less. Motorcyclists may not exceed 15 mph and may not use the shoulder or bike lanes.

My Take? 

Beyond being asked by Stayin’ Safe training tour participants if I would be teaching real-world tips and techniques for safer lane splitting and lane filtering, I’m most often asked for my professional opinion on the practice. “It’s great,” I say, followed by, “and it’s not.” Practiced responsibly, it can be an effective way to avoid collisions and severe injury. When practiced irresponsibly, it can be perilous for the rider and, at a minimum, harmful to driver/rider relations. 

Even after examining the data, hearing the opinions of experts, and weighing the significant pros and cons presented here, a consensus may remain elusive. When it comes to splitting lanes and filtering through traffic, it might always be a split decision among riders. Fortunately, we all have the personal option to do it or not do it. As for me, I split lanes where it is legal to do so, provided the environment, my equipment, and my state of mind are suited for it. 

Now, if you’ll excuse me, I have an appointment and traffic is heavy, so I think I’d better split.

Want to continue the discussion? Check out Ep. 60 of the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast: On Lane Splitting with Eric Trow.

The post Split Decision: Are Lane Splitting and Lane Filtering Safe? appeared first on Rider Magazine.

The following motorcycle tips article was the Exhaust Note feature in Rider‘s adventure-themed November 2022 issue, which also included stories on the TransAmerica Trail, Trans Canada Adventure Trail, and the Trans Euro Trail.

Call me crazy, but in the past decade I’ve ridden solo for half of the TransAmerica Trail, three Backcountry Discover Routes (Colorado, Idaho, and New Mexico), the Oklahoma Adventure Trail, and the Lone Star Loop.

Motorcycle forums often have threads debating the pros and cons of riding solo off-road. Some think it’s foolish; others think it’s the only way to ride. When you’re on your own in the backcountry, help may not be readily available if you need it. But there are also benefits to solo adventures – as long as you use some common sense.

Riding with like-minded friends is great, but the more riders, the more logistical complexity due to different schedules and preferences for meals, lodging, etc. Then there’s the ride itself – when to get started each day, how far to ride, and where and when to stop. One of the key advantages of a solo ride is its simplicity. You’re the boss. You’re the only one who makes decisions (and has to live with them). Take breaks, take more photos, stop and smell the roses – it’s up to you.

Another advantage for us older guys is that it beats not riding. For me, I either ride solo or I don’t ride at all. I’m 75, and most of my friends have quit riding off-road for various reasons. And younger guys with jobs and families often don’t have the flexibility to go for a ride on a Tuesday or to take a couple weeks off for a long trip.

Some would argue that you can’t share the adventure with anyone if you ride alone. My solution is to take lots of photos and record descriptive audio notes on my smartphone throughout the day. Once back home, I convert these into a printed ride report to share with family and friends.

Motorcycle Tips for Off-Road Riding Alone

Communicate: You should always let people know where you will be riding, but that’s not enough. You should also carry a Garmin inReach or SPOT satellite tracker/communicator that includes two-way text messaging. Carry it on your person at all times since it won’t do you any good if it’s on your bike 50 feet down a ravine. Establish a periodic check-in routine via your mobile phone or tracker with those aware of your ride. Ask someone to periodically check your tracker “share page” with the understanding that if your last track point hasn’t moved in a few hours and you haven’t messaged, you probably need help. In addition, they should have the appropriate number to reach search and rescue.

Plan Your Route: Choose routes that are within your skill set. GPS tracks are great, but paper maps are good as a backup and to familiarize yourself with “bail out” routes. In case of an urgent situation, such routes provide the shortest path to pavement or nearby towns. Paper maps also give you the big picture, so during your ride, stop occasionally and figure out exactly where you are.

Ride the Right Bike: When riding solo off-road, it’s critical that you’re able to pick your bike up by yourself when (not if) you drop it. Most of us have seen demonstrations of 100-lb riders picking up 800-lb motorcycles by crouching down with their lower back against the seat, holding the handlebar and the rear fender, and “walking” the bike upright. It’s a valuable technique to know and practice. In off-road situations, you may be in sand, gravel, or some other challenging situation, so I also carry a strap that I can hook under the bike to adjust my lifting position. When you’re off-road, a lighter motorcycle is always better in terms of maneuverability and the ability to pick it up, which you may have to do multiple times.

Your bike should also be well-maintained in terms of tires, chain, brakes, bolt tightness, lights, battery, fuel, cables, etc. Know your bike and how to troubleshoot common problems. Carry a comprehensive toolkit and be able to fix a flat. Even if you have a range of 200 miles, carry a RotoPax or other auxiliary fuel container.

Protect Yourself: Riding solo means ATGATT (All The Gear, All The Time). If you fall when you’re alone, quality safety gear may determine whether you ride the bike out or are flown out in a helicopter (with a costly bike recovery). A good helmet, armored apparel, durable gloves, and adventure/off-road boots are necessities. Carry a hydration pack, extra snacks, sunscreen, a first-aid kit, and basic emergency supplies.

Ride Smart: Everyone’s instinct for self-preservation has a different calibration, but when riding solo off-road it’s better to err on the side of caution. If you come to a section and hear a warning bell in your head, consider turning around for an alternate track. Get a “Ride Right” sticker from RideBDR.com and make it standard practice. Riding far right on dirt roads, over hills, and around blind curves has saved me many times. Cover the front brake lever with at least one finger and practice emergency stops. Keep your mind focused on your ride and your speed appropriate for visibility. Obey rules and laws, stay off private roads, and slow down around houses and livestock.

Stuff Happens: What should you do if you get hurt or stranded? Don’t panic! Assess and evaluate. Check for injuries, check the bike for rideability, consult your map, and weigh your options. Carefully consider: “Do I ride, do I walk, or do I wait?”

If you hanker for adventure and long to see what’s over the next hill, a solo off-road ride may be just what you need.

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